Monstera care guide

Monstera care at a glance

The short version for a healthy monstera deliciosa.

How much light does a monstera need?

Monsteras want bright, indirect light: a few feet from an east or west window, or set back from a south window behind a sheer curtain. In the wild they climb toward light filtering through a forest canopy.

Light is what makes the leaves split. A monstera in a dim corner survives, but new leaves come in small, solid and on long, stretched stems. An hour or two of gentle morning sun is fine; hot afternoon sun through glass scorches the leaves with pale or brown patches.

• Rotate the pot a quarter turn every few weeks so it grows evenly instead of leaning.
• In offices with deep floor plates, a full-spectrum LED grow light above the plant keeps it compact.

How often to water a monstera

Water when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil are dry. Water the soil slowly until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer. For most homes that's every 7 to 10 days in spring and summer.

Overwatering is the most common killer. Yellow lower leaves, black stems or a sour smell from the soil all point to roots sitting wet. Underwatering shows as drooping leaves and crispy brown edges, and recovers within a day of a good drink.

Monstera winter care

Monsteras slow down in winter. Water every 2 to 3 weeks, only when the top few inches are dry, and stop feeding until spring. Move the plant closer to a window if days are short, but keep leaves off cold glass.

Keep it above 55°F and away from drafty doors, single-pane windows and heater vents. Dry heating air browns leaf edges, so group plants together or run a humidifier nearby.

Soil, pots, moss poles and repotting

Use a chunky, fast-draining aroid mix: roughly half potting soil, a quarter orchid bark and a quarter perlite. It keeps air around the roots, which is the best protection against root rot.

Monsteras are climbers. Once a plant starts to sprawl, push a moss pole or coir pole into the pot and tie the stems to it loosely. Aerial roots that grab the pole help the plant produce bigger, more split leaves.

Repot every 1 to 2 years in spring, going up 2 inches in pot width. Long aerial roots can be tucked into the soil, guided onto the pole or trimmed without harm.

Fertilizer, pruning and propagation

Feed every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength. Skip fall and winter.

Prune damaged or yellow leaves at the base of their stem with clean shears. To control size, cut a stem just above a node (the bump where a leaf and aerial root grow).

To propagate, cut a section of stem with at least one node and a leaf, stand it in water until roots are 2 to 3 inches long, then pot it up. A cutting without a node will root but never grow a new leaf.

Common monstera problems

Most monstera problems come from water or light.

• Yellow leaves: overwatering, especially if lower leaves yellow first. Let the soil dry further between waterings.
• Brown, crispy edges: dry air or underwatering.
• Brown spots with a yellow halo: root rot or a bacterial infection from wet soil. Check the roots and cut away anything mushy.
• No splits on new leaves: too little light, or the plant is still young. Monsteras usually start splitting at 2 to 3 years old.
• Leaning or leggy: reaching for light. Move it brighter and add a moss pole.
• Pests: spider mites, thrips and scale. Wipe leaves monthly and treat with insecticidal soap at the first speckling.
• Fungus gnats: soil staying wet. Let it dry out and use sticky traps.

Growing a monstera outdoors

Monsteras grow outdoors all year in USDA zones 10 to 12, such as South Florida and coastal Southern California, in bright shade. Elsewhere, a potted monstera can summer on a shaded patio and come in before nights fall below 55°F. Acclimate it gradually, because sudden sun bleaches the leaves.

Monstera varieties and how to care for each

Popular monsteras share the same basic care. These are the differences.